Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To take away the nozzle, first lift the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (one thing on the front that will turn about 3/4 of the turn) counter clockwise as far as it is going to go. This should select the belt up from the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s stood a window within the belt lifter that might say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch on the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right inside center too much in the nozzle. You can now take the nozzle off. If you look inside hole within the back, you should see that the steel hook inside reaches the very best, along with the belt is hooked to it. This is how it ought to look when you find yourself ready to position the nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose and other head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter returning to the belt on position, so you aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to work with the hose, hook underneath of the hose end behind the tiny shaft within the motor shaft for the main unit, tilt it, and latch it at the most notable. If the little shaft is not centered (equal level of shaft sticking out on each side), tap it gently until it can be centered.
Belts extend and slip, especially in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 includes a tread on the inside, in reducing slippage. Also machines made since the mid 80s have stood a green LED on top in the edge with the nozzle that lights up once the brush is turning at a good speed. If you have a mature machine (or perhaps your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3 to 6 months, since they will stretch. If your light is lit up if you are using the machine with the correct height adjustment, after that your belt is adequate.
If you need to change the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in the event you haven’t all ready. Then take away the bottom plate. On machines prior to G (G series are best vacuum cleaner for home
best floor vacuum

best household vacuum
Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which became available in late 1989) the brush is going to be coupled to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, take away the belt, slip a fresh belt on the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the bottom so that you can adjust them. On G series, the brush is inside the nozzle. There is a number 1, 2 or 3 facing out, additionally, there are 1, 2, or 3 notches around the square end. The same number needs to be facing from each party when you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down past the straight edge the thickness of an coin. On a G series machine 1 puts minimal bristle down. As the brush wears and never enough bristle hangs down, you position the 2s facing the bottom, whether it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs listed below the underside plate.
IF you took the whole brush to clean it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle to ensure that, because the brush turns from all-around, the dirt go for the center. One end is bigger as opposed to other so it will be impossible to set it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to scrub the bearings and reversed them after they wear them, then the brush won’t go right. Also, for the pre G series brushes, the larger end might be forced into the small slot, although it tears in the end. Also, on machines after the mid 80s, there exists a magnet at one end of the brush that induces an existing in the coil of wire that lights just a little green LED for the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t on the end the place that the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends could be removed and switched to make it right. IF you decide to get rid of the ends to wash the bearings, get it done one end with a time and change it out before treatment of other end.
Then, when you’re prepared to put it back on, turn the belt lifter for the belt off position, making sure it’s got grabbed the belt (you can observe it with the hole inside back). Then hook the nozzle on the shaft (ensuring shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) beneath the motor pulley around the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, just like you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt onto the motor shaft, and it should be ready to work with.
The rug shampooer along with the old handy butler attachments in addition have a belt lifter and hook and unhook the same way in the front from the machine. Leaving the belt up in the air around the hook will stretch it.

Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To take away the nozzle, first lift the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (one thing on the front that will turn about 3/4 of the turn) counter clockwise as far as it is going to go. This should select the belt up from the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s stood a window within the belt lifter that might say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch on the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right inside center too much in the nozzle. You can now take the nozzle off. If you look inside hole within the back, you should see that the steel hook inside reaches the very best, along with the belt is hooked to it. This is how it ought to look when you find yourself ready to position the nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose and other head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter returning to the belt on position, so you aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to work with the hose, hook underneath of the hose end behind the tiny shaft within the motor shaft for the main unit, tilt it, and latch it at the most notable. If the little shaft is not centered (equal level of shaft sticking out on each side), tap it gently until it can be centered.
Belts extend and slip, especially in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 includes a tread on the inside, in reducing slippage. Also machines made since the mid 80s have stood a green LED on top in the edge with the nozzle that lights up once the brush is turning at a good speed. If you have a mature machine (or perhaps your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3 to 6 months, since they will stretch. If your light is lit up if you are using the machine with the correct height adjustment, after that your belt is adequate.
If you need to change the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in the event you haven’t all ready. Then take away the bottom plate. On machines prior to G (G series are best vacuum cleaner for home
best floor vacuum

best household vacuum
Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which became available in late 1989) the brush is going to be coupled to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, take away the belt, slip a fresh belt on the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the bottom so that you can adjust them. On G series, the brush is inside the nozzle. There is a number 1, 2 or 3 facing out, additionally, there are 1, 2, or 3 notches around the square end. The same number needs to be facing from each party when you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down past the straight edge the thickness of an coin. On a G series machine 1 puts minimal bristle down. As the brush wears and never enough bristle hangs down, you position the 2s facing the bottom, whether it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs listed below the underside plate.
IF you took the whole brush to clean it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle to ensure that, because the brush turns from all-around, the dirt go for the center. One end is bigger as opposed to other so it will be impossible to set it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to scrub the bearings and reversed them after they wear them, then the brush won’t go right. Also, for the pre G series brushes, the larger end might be forced into the small slot, although it tears in the end. Also, on machines after the mid 80s, there exists a magnet at one end of the brush that induces an existing in the coil of wire that lights just a little green LED for the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t on the end the place that the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends could be removed and switched to make it right. IF you decide to get rid of the ends to wash the bearings, get it done one end with a time and change it out before treatment of other end.
Then, when you’re prepared to put it back on, turn the belt lifter for the belt off position, making sure it’s got grabbed the belt (you can observe it with the hole inside back). Then hook the nozzle on the shaft (ensuring shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) beneath the motor pulley around the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, just like you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt onto the motor shaft, and it should be ready to work with.
The rug shampooer along with the old handy butler attachments in addition have a belt lifter and hook and unhook the same way in the front from the machine. Leaving the belt up in the air around the hook will stretch it.