Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To get rid of the nozzle, first lift inside the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (the thing around the front that may turn about 3/4 of a turn) counter clockwise as much as it’s going to go. This should find the belt up off the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s stood a window in the belt lifter that would say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch about the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right in the center too much of the nozzle. You can now make nozzle off. If you look inside the hole inside back, you should notice that the steel hook inside is a the very best, along with the belt is hooked into it. This is how it will look when you find yourself willing to put the nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose or some other head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter time for the belt on position, so that you can aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to use the hose, hook the lower in the hose end behind the little shaft within the motor shaft around the main unit, tilt up, and latch it at the very best. If the small shaft is not centered (equal amount of shaft herniated on each side), tap it gently until it is centered.
Belts stretch out and slip, specifically in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 has a tread around the inside, in lessening slippage. Also machines made since mid 80s have a green LED on top of the edge with the nozzle that lights up when the brush is turning with a good speed. If you have a mature machine (or maybe your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3-6 months, because they will stretch. If your light is lit up when you find yourself using the machine at the correct height adjustment, in that case your belt is adequate.
If you want to change the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in case you haven’t all ready. Then get rid of the bottom plate. On machines ahead of the G (G series are Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which arrived on the scene in late 1989) the brush will probably be connected to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, eliminate the belt, slip a brand new belt over the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the underside so you can adjust them. On G series, the brush is inside the nozzle. There is a number 1, 2 or 3 facing out, there’s also 1, 2, or 3 notches around the square end. The same number must be facing out on each party whenever you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down at night straight edge the thickness of the coin. On a G series machine 1 puts the least bristle down. As the brush wears rather than enough bristle hangs down, you position the 2s facing the lower, whether it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs below underneath plate.
IF you took the entire brush out to clean it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle in order that, as the brush turns from tailgate to cab, the dirt will go on the center. One end is bigger compared to other so it must be impossible that will put it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to wash the bearings and reversed them when they put them on, then a brush won’t go right. Also, around the pre G series brushes, the big end may be forced into the small slot, though it tears up the end. Also, on
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machines as soon as the mid 80s, there is a magnet at one end of the brush that induces an existing inside a coil of wire that lights a bit green LED for the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t on the end where the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends could be removed and switched making it right. IF you decide to get rid of the ends to clean the bearings, take action one end in a time and replace it before removing the other end.
Then, when you’re prepared to put it back on, turn the belt lifter on the belt off position, making certain it’s grabbed the belt (you can see it over the hole in the back). Then hook the nozzle over the shaft (making certain shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) within the motor pulley about the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, equally as you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt on the motor shaft, and it must be ready to use.
The rug shampooer and also the old handy butler attachments in addition have a belt lifter and hook and unhook the same way through the front with the machine. Leaving the belt up inside air on the hook will stretch it.

Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To get rid of the nozzle, first lift inside the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (the thing around the front that may turn about 3/4 of a turn) counter clockwise as much as it’s going to go. This should find the belt up off the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s stood a window in the belt lifter that would say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch about the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right in the center too much of the nozzle. You can now make nozzle off. If you look inside the hole inside back, you should notice that the steel hook inside is a the very best, along with the belt is hooked into it. This is how it will look when you find yourself willing to put the nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose or some other head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter time for the belt on position, so that you can aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to use the hose, hook the lower in the hose end behind the little shaft within the motor shaft around the main unit, tilt up, and latch it at the very best. If the small shaft is not centered (equal amount of shaft herniated on each side), tap it gently until it is centered.
Belts stretch out and slip, specifically in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 has a tread around the inside, in lessening slippage. Also machines made since mid 80s have a green LED on top of the edge with the nozzle that lights up when the brush is turning with a good speed. If you have a mature machine (or maybe your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3-6 months, because they will stretch. If your light is lit up when you find yourself using the machine at the correct height adjustment, in that case your belt is adequate.
If you want to change the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in case you haven’t all ready. Then get rid of the bottom plate. On machines ahead of the G (G series are Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which arrived on the scene in late 1989) the brush will probably be connected to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, eliminate the belt, slip a brand new belt over the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the underside so you can adjust them. On G series, the brush is inside the nozzle. There is a number 1, 2 or 3 facing out, there’s also 1, 2, or 3 notches around the square end. The same number must be facing out on each party whenever you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down at night straight edge the thickness of the coin. On a G series machine 1 puts the least bristle down. As the brush wears rather than enough bristle hangs down, you position the 2s facing the lower, whether it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs below underneath plate.
IF you took the entire brush out to clean it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle in order that, as the brush turns from tailgate to cab, the dirt will go on the center. One end is bigger compared to other so it must be impossible that will put it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to wash the bearings and reversed them when they put them on, then a brush won’t go right. Also, around the pre G series brushes, the big end may be forced into the small slot, though it tears up the end. Also, on
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best vacuum cleaner for home
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machines as soon as the mid 80s, there is a magnet at one end of the brush that induces an existing inside a coil of wire that lights a bit green LED for the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t on the end where the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends could be removed and switched making it right. IF you decide to get rid of the ends to clean the bearings, take action one end in a time and replace it before removing the other end.
Then, when you’re prepared to put it back on, turn the belt lifter on the belt off position, making certain it’s grabbed the belt (you can see it over the hole in the back). Then hook the nozzle over the shaft (making certain shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) within the motor pulley about the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, equally as you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt on the motor shaft, and it must be ready to use.
The rug shampooer and also the old handy butler attachments in addition have a belt lifter and hook and unhook the same way through the front with the machine. Leaving the belt up inside air on the hook will stretch it.