Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To eliminate the nozzle, first lift up the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (the one thing about the front that could turn about 3/4 of your turn) counter clockwise in terms of it’s going to go. This should find the belt up off of the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s had a window in the belt lifter that will say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch for the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right inside center outrageous in the nozzle. You can now consider the nozzle off. If you look inside hole within the back, you ought to note that the steel hook inside are at the top, as well as the belt is hooked into it. This is how it must look if you are willing to squeeze nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose or another head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter to the belt on position, so you aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to utilize the hose, hook the bottom with the hose end behind the miscroscopic shaft beneath the motor shaft around the main unit, tilt it down, and latch it at the very best. If the tiny shaft just isn’t centered (equal quantity of shaft protruding on either side), tap it gently until it is centered.
Belts loosen up and slip, particularly in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 includes a tread for the inside, in lowering slippage. Also machines made because the mid 80s have stood a green LED on top in the edge of the nozzle that fires up in the event the brush is turning at a good speed. If you have an old machine (or your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3 to 6 months, while they will stretch. If your light is lit up when you’re while using the machine with the correct height adjustment, in that case your belt is adequate.
If you need to customize the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in case you haven’t all ready. Then remove the bottom plate. On machines prior to the G (G series are Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which arrived on the scene in late 1989) the brush is going to be attached to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, remove the belt, slip a whole new belt over the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the lower in order to adjust them. On G series, the brush is in the nozzle. There is a # 1, a few facing out, there are also 1, 2, or 3 notches for the square end. The same number should be facing from each party when you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down at night straight edge the thickness of the coin. On a G series machine 1 puts minimal bristle down. As the brush wears instead of enough bristle hangs down, you put the 2s facing the lower, when it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs listed below underneath plate.
IF you took the full brush in the market to wash it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle in order that, as the brush turns from all-around,
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best vacuum cleaner for home the dirt go towards center. One end is bigger as opposed to other so it should be impossible that will put it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to wash the bearings and reversed them when they wear them, then this brush won’t go right. Also, on the pre G series brushes, the larger end can be forced to the small slot, eventhough it tears in the end. Also, on machines as soon as the mid 80s, you will find there’s magnet at one end from the brush that induces an ongoing in a very coil of wire that lights a bit green LED on the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t at the end in which the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends may be removed and switched to really make it right. IF you decide to remove the ends to clean the bearings, do it one end with a time and change it before taking out the other end.
Then, when you find yourself ready to put it back on, turn the belt lifter towards the belt off position, making sure it has grabbed the belt (you can see it over the hole inside back). Then hook the nozzle within the shaft (ensuring that shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) underneath the motor pulley for the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, in the same way you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt onto the motor shaft, and it must be ready to make use of.
The rug shampooer and the old handy butler attachments furthermore have a belt lifter and hook and unhook exactly the same from the front in the machine. Leaving the belt up within the air on the hook will stretch it.

Kirby Vacuum Belt and Nozzle Changing

To eliminate the nozzle, first lift up the headlight. Then turn the belt lifter (the one thing about the front that could turn about 3/4 of your turn) counter clockwise in terms of it’s going to go. This should find the belt up off of the motor shaft. On many Kirbys some arrows saying belt off will lineup. Some brown models In the early 70s had a window in the belt lifter that will say belt off. Now you can unlatch the latch for the main body that holds the nozzle. This is right inside center outrageous in the nozzle. You can now consider the nozzle off. If you look inside hole within the back, you ought to note that the steel hook inside are at the top, as well as the belt is hooked into it. This is how it must look if you are willing to squeeze nozzle back on. If you are putting the hose or another head on, I recommend turning the belt lifter to the belt on position, so you aren’t stretching the belt.
If you want to utilize the hose, hook the bottom with the hose end behind the miscroscopic shaft beneath the motor shaft around the main unit, tilt it down, and latch it at the very best. If the tiny shaft just isn’t centered (equal quantity of shaft protruding on either side), tap it gently until it is centered.
Belts loosen up and slip, particularly in thick carpet. The genuine Kirby belt for machines made since 1981 includes a tread for the inside, in lowering slippage. Also machines made because the mid 80s have stood a green LED on top in the edge of the nozzle that fires up in the event the brush is turning at a good speed. If you have an old machine (or your green light mechanism is broken), we recommend changing belts routinely every 3 to 6 months, while they will stretch. If your light is lit up when you’re while using the machine with the correct height adjustment, in that case your belt is adequate.
If you need to customize the belt, turn the belt lifter to belt on in case you haven’t all ready. Then remove the bottom plate. On machines prior to the G (G series are Generation 3, 4, 5, 6, ultimate G, Ultimate G Diamond, and Sentria) series (which arrived on the scene in late 1989) the brush is going to be attached to the bottom plate. Carefully pry one end out, remove the belt, slip a whole new belt over the brush, and reinsert brush into bottom plate. The screw heads should face the lower in order to adjust them. On G series, the brush is in the nozzle. There is a # 1, a few facing out, there are also 1, 2, or 3 notches for the square end. The same number should be facing from each party when you reinstall. Cut off any hair. Put bottom plate back(some had latches, some just push in). Push the brush up. Put a straight edge across the lower. The bristles, when pointing down, should hang down at night straight edge the thickness of the coin. On a G series machine 1 puts minimal bristle down. As the brush wears instead of enough bristle hangs down, you put the 2s facing the lower, when it still isn’t enough, the 3s. On the older models, you adjust the screws until a coin thickness of bristle hangs listed below underneath plate.
IF you took the full brush in the market to wash it more thoroughly, which end goes where is important. The bristles angle in order that, as the brush turns from all-around,
best floor vacuum

best household vacuum
best vacuum cleaner for home the dirt go towards center. One end is bigger as opposed to other so it should be impossible that will put it in wrong. BUT, when someone removed the ends to wash the bearings and reversed them when they wear them, then this brush won’t go right. Also, on the pre G series brushes, the larger end can be forced to the small slot, eventhough it tears in the end. Also, on machines as soon as the mid 80s, you will find there’s magnet at one end from the brush that induces an ongoing in a very coil of wire that lights a bit green LED on the nozzle. If the magnet isn’t at the end in which the coil & LED are, somethings wrong. The ends may be removed and switched to really make it right. IF you decide to remove the ends to clean the bearings, do it one end with a time and change it before taking out the other end.
Then, when you find yourself ready to put it back on, turn the belt lifter towards the belt off position, making sure it has grabbed the belt (you can see it over the hole inside back). Then hook the nozzle within the shaft (ensuring that shaft is centered, see paragraph 3) underneath the motor pulley for the main unit, tilt it back, and latch it, in the same way you unlatched it. Then turn the belt lifter towards the belt on position. This should drop the belt onto the motor shaft, and it must be ready to make use of.
The rug shampooer and the old handy butler attachments furthermore have a belt lifter and hook and unhook exactly the same from the front in the machine. Leaving the belt up within the air on the hook will stretch it.